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Step into Jinshan Old Street. Amid the mingling of long-standing and newly opened shops, beyond the dazzling array of sweet-potato products, a red lantern hangs at one doorway. This is the Zhu Family Shop, more than seventy years old. On the threshold a giant cauldron sizzles without pause from opening time, turning out plate after plate of mouth-watering “boar-pork” – a recipe the Zhu family has refined through three generations. That crimson lantern has become the shop’s landmark; when it is lit, visitors know the steaming boar-pork is on sale. The family traces its catering craft to the Japanese colonial period, when the Zhus already ran food stalls in Jinshan. Present owner Zhu Ci-zhou recalls that his grandmother’s cooking was legendary throughout the district. Jinshan Old Street was the commercial heart of the region; every wedding, funeral or festival feast was held there, and the grandmother was always summoned to cook. Her celebrated boar-pork was an indispensable dish at every banquet table.