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Yunnan Xiao Guan’s rice noodles are made from raw rice: premium Indica rice is soaked, ground into a slurry, settled, strained, then steamed in molds. The broth that accompanies them is a stock simmered from pork and chicken bones; beyond the natural richness of the animal fat, the pork bones lend sweetness and the chicken bones add freshness, yielding a full-bodied, layered flavor. Slippery noodles that have absorbed all that soup, together with generous toppings of shredded pork, pork liver, a fried egg, scallions… keep you lifting your chopsticks for one more bite, then another, impossible to stop.