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Legend has it that when the Ming-dynasty general Qi Jiguang came south, he wanted his troops to have food within reach at any moment, so he invented this hole-in-the-middle cake shaped like a doughnut or bagel that soldiers could string on a cord and hang around their necks. Jiguang bing can be eaten many ways—stuffed with egg, meat, vegetables, etc.—and is also called the Matsu hamburger. The auntie at the long-standing Baolixuan shop still sells them upstairs in the market each morning.