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She insists on recreating Mom’s flavor; the warm-hearted proprietress treats every guest like her own child, serving only the freshest, tastiest, and most hygienic dishes. The shop may look unpretentious, yet come mealtime it’s packed, and you’ll often wait a while—but for a taste this good, the wait is worth it. The noodles are springy, round Japanese ramen: silky, chewy strands you’ll slurp nonstop. The scallion pancakes are also famous—crisp but never dry, with moist, flaky layers and a generous waft of scallion aroma. Best of all is the beef: authentic Kinmen yellow cattle simmered in wine lees, topped with house-pickled mustard greens and a spoonful of chili—wow, pure bliss.