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2015 Taoyuan City Gold Medal Shop Many people assume the owner grew up in a military dependents’ village or is the child of mainlanders, but in fact the boss is a native Taiwanese; his straight-talking wife hails from Fuzhou. The couple have been in the food business for years, originally running a roast-meat shop before switching to the “military-village” noodles they serve today. To nail the flavor and texture, the owner learned noodle-making and side-dish recipes directly from village moms, drawing foodies in droves. Their deep local roots have also made the place a favorite neighborhood canteen. Army Café’s menu is almost all noodles. The star is the home-style hand-torn noodles: chewy dough, generous toppings, a light sweet broth—one bowl and you’re stuffed. The signature Army Dry Noodles, tossed in black-hog lard, are equally popular, fragrant and satisfying. The braised dishes and cold sides that accompany the noodles are fresh, not greasy, and never get old. While you wait for your order, take in the décor: a riot of national flags, portraits of Sun Yat-sen and Chiang Kai-shek, uniform patches, Little Datong dolls, veterans’ village doorplates—every corner oozing retro nostalgia.