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Chen Lin’s Hong Kong-style stinky tofu is unforgettable even to locals; tucked in an unremarkable alley, each bite crackles. Instead of large, pre-cut cubes, small blocks are slit down the middle, deep-fried, then topped with crushed garlic and served with marinated Taiwanese pickled cabbage—refreshing, never greasy. One bite releases a gush of aromatic juice, crisp and irresistible. Even boxed up for take-out, it stays shatteringly good when cold.