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“Toumu Seafood Restaurant” sits directly opposite the Jiqizai Big-Nose-Stone Mountain trailhead. Opened in 1982, it has already passed to the third generation. The kitchen specializes in stir-fries and seafood; the fish and lobsters come straight from local fishing boats. In the beginning the place was simply called “East Coast,” and most customers were long-haul truckers. When copy-cat names multiplied, and because the owner’s grandfather had served four terms as tribal chief, the sign was changed to “Toumu (Chief) Seafood.” Since then the clientele has shifted to East-Coast sightseers. Founder Mama Kiniw, besides running the dining room, sells home-grilled flying fish from a stall next door. Fish caught off Jiqizai are cleaned, brined, and roasted until their aroma drifts down the road; on busy days she can sell close to a hundred a day. Her skill earned her the “Most Popular” award at the 2011 Council of Indigenous Peoples Expo. Apart from stir-fries, the set-menu showpiece is the seven-dish-one-soup “Mountain-and-Sea Feast,” prized for its value and strong local flavor...