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A summer tonic to dispel dampness: this clear herbal duck, fragrant for sixty years, isn’t the usual inky angelica brew but a golden-broth duck-mian-xian. Yunlin’s hand-made red vermicelli drifts in the limpid soup, chewy yet never mushy, having soaked up the tender duck’s rendered fat and angelica aroma. Add a plate of crisp offal; beat the heat and purge the damp with this single warming bowl.